Thursday, 22 October 2015

Shaping and contouring the face

In Sue's lesson today we recapped on how to apply the perfect base foundation and then we had a demonstration from her about how to contour and highlight.

Firstly, I ensured that Liberty's skin was properly prepped by cleansing, toning and moisturising her face. I blended a few colours from my Kryolan foundation palette to match her skin tone and applied the foundation from the inner face and worked it outwards. I then concealed any problem areas and under her eyes. I didn't finish with a powder as I normally would because we then went on to start highlighting and contouring the face.



(From left) Cleansed face, foundation base

How to contour:


  • In order to shape the face and prep it for contour, we applied a light mix of concealers/foundations and lightly shaped these onto the upper cheekbones, the forehead (in a triangle formation) chin, and down the middle of the nose. 

  • We then asked our models to suck their cheeks in and we felt for their cheekbones. Mixing together a shade one to two shades darker than their skin colour, we lightly lined out the cheek bone and blended it in a curving motion towards the face and into the hairline.

  • You must make sure this is properly blended! Use fingers to do. This is a cream so it's easy to blend but can get a bit muddy.

  • We then used a bronzer (I used matte) and went over the contour line we created and then up on the sides of the forehead and down across the jawline to create definition.
  • If you want to you can use a blush for a pop of colour!
The final contour result:



I was really pleased with the finished result and felt like the process was easy. I was fascinated about how you can change what a person's facial structure looks like by defining their features! I hadn't really learnt about contouring before and hadn't even practiced it on myself. I was so intrigued and felt like the lesson was a great tool for future makeup looks. 

Products used:

  • Illamasqua satin primer
  • Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette
  • Kryolan dermacolour camouflage concealer palette
  • Illamasqua loose powder in translucent
  • Kryolan blusher palette (dark browns)
  • Sleek highlight
Brushes used:
  • Kryolan foundation brush
  • Kryolan Kabuki brush
  • Kryolan concealer brush
  • Charles Fox triangular sponge
  • Angled contour brush
  • Kryolan powder brush
Health and safety for this technical lesson:
  • Work surface area must be clean and tidy
  • Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
  • Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
  • Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
  • Gown the model
  • Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
  • Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
  • Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
  • Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
  • Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
  • Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

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