Three brushes makeup challenge

In our lesson today we were given the challenge of creating a makeup look using only three brushes. I decided to go for a complimentary colour design as I was working on a model with very blue eyes and wanted to make them pop. I'm all about the bright colours so I wanted to use a bright goldy/orange colour and define it using a warmer golden colour.

I like the finished effect for my model as it's pretty, however I was hoping for the colours to contrast a lot more!!! As my model was fairly tanned, the orangey/gold eyeshadow complimented her skintone rather than contrasting with it. Although it makes her blue eyes pop, (which was the intention) I wish it had turned out a little bit more dramatic.

Working with three brushes only..

I found the concept of this challenge really scary. I don't seem to use many face brushes but I really like to have a selection for eyes, blending and building colour is key. The three brushes I eventually chose were: Kryolan Foundation brush, Mac fluffy tapered eye brush and a small mac lip brush.

I normally like to blend foundation into the skin using my foundation brush and then my trusty kabuki brush, however I had to make do without today and I thought it'd be dissappointed.. I was pleased with how smoothly the product went on and didn't need much blending. It was also handy that I didn't have to cake on foundation as my model had good skin and didn't require much coverage.

My favourite brush of all time is my Mac tapered eye blending brush. I knew it would be perfect for blending my two very pigmented eyeshadows together, however I also knew that applying the product with it might be tricky. It was ok.. But I had to really wipe off the product with couch roll before I started blending.

I thought using the lip brush to do eyebrows was quite tricky as normally I'd use an angled brush. I applied the product little by little which seemed to do the trick; I can imagine if product was layered on very thickly with this brush the whole thing would look awful! Again, I had to clean this brush off and use it for the lips, which was just a simple pale pink matte gloss. I didn't want the lips to be a distraction to the eyes so thought this worked well.

Products used:

• Mac Studio fix fluid foundation in 'NW15'
• Makeup revolutions eyeshadow palette in 'Iconic 1' using gold shimmer and pale brown
• No7 dramatic lash mascara in black
• L'oreal eye brow palette in dark
• Naked lipgloss 'barely there pink'

Brushes used:

• Kryolan foundation brush
• Mac tapered fluffy eye brush 
• Mac lip brush

Peer exchange and practicing my partner's design

My partner and I exchanged pictures/notes about our final designs so that we were both clear on what the other person expect. Above is the face chart Hannah sent me after we had done a trial session with her makeup design in a free lesson. I had a couple of photos to refer to for Hannah's design, but she guided me through what to do as we came to it. I really love her design but we had had a discussion about whether or not it was 'Elizabethan' or not.. I thought it was, because of the royal pinks/purples and the reds and glitter. However, when we were practicing we made a few changes..

The first practice session, step by step!

The changed aspects of the design included the eyebrows and the lips. The base, eye makeup, lashes and the glitter used on the lips all stayed the same, but in the practice session as I  was filling in one of the brows it extended out too much. I had a little play and made it turn upwards and flow out, and Hannah loved it so we added this minor detail; which was fun! As well as this, I was filling in the lips and we both thought how great the look would be with a little love heart lip (to suit the era..) instead of the lips being fully coloured in. We then trialed this in the last session before the assessment..

Final practice session

As you can see, there are a few changes in these images compared to the last images. The brows, lips, and base look entirely different (and better). I was really grateful to have the time to practice the design a couple of times so that we could have changed it slightly if we needed to, I really wanted it to be perfect for Hannah and to show my technical makeup skills! I feel confident about the final assessment knowing that I got both of these looks down in under an hour. It was such a fun design to work with and really visually rewarding too.

Products used:

• Illamasqua matte primer
• Kryolan supracolour in white
• Nars Vanilla concealer
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Melt eyeshadows in 'Lovesick', 'Promiscuous' and 'Amelie'
• Illamasqua liquid liner in 'Havoc'
• L'oreal volumous black
• MAC liner 'Beet'
• MAC lipstick 'Russian red'
• MAC pigment in 'Rust'

Brushes used:

• Zoeva foundation brush
• Zoeva flat blending face brush
• Zoeva contour brush
• Zoeva pointed face brush
• MAC fluffy blending brush
• Unnamed flat eyeshadow brush
• Unnamed pointed concealer brush
• Unnamed pointed eyeshadow brush
• MAC lip brush
• Kryolan small angled brush

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Historical Elizabethan makeup

We have recently been learning about traditional Elizabethan makeup and I have researched this quite thoroughly. In Sue's lesson today, we put our knowledge of makeup into practice. Above are a few images with makeup similar to the style we practised in lesson. The aim today was to create a white base, using whichever base we preferred, powdering it, applying blush to the cheeks, whitening out the brows and lashes, and then adding a red lip. It was fun to do, and didn't take too long to achieve either.

These three images really interested me because when researching Elizabethan makeup, the young ladies always have pale features and very blatant rosy cheeks - in a circular motion, not the modern way of achieving blush! They would use various products to achieve this rosiness, including vermillion, which is a red pigment made from mercury sulphide. We recreated our own Elizabethan looks on a partner and these were the results:

Working on Tolly was good because she has lovely flawless skin, so it means the white base goes on beautifully. I used Illamasqua white base for this instead of the Kryolan sets because I prefer the finish of it. I mixed it with the matte illamasqua base so that it wasn't dewy, as this isn't the traditional Elizabethan look. Next, I used the Kryolan Supracolour to white out the brows and lashes. Tolly is quite dark, so it meant blocking out her eyebrows was a challenge and still didn't look perfect at the end. I used a disposable mascara want to apply this and to the eyelashes as well. For the rosy cheeks, I used circular motions with a powder brush, using the Kryolan Blusher palette. As for the lips, I used the dark burgundy colour in the Supracolour palette.

Products used:

• Illamasqua white base mixed with Illamasqua matte primer
• Illamasqua loose powder in translucent
• Kryolan Supracolour in white for brows and lashes
• Kryolan blush palette in 'R21'
• Kryolan supracolour in dark burgundy

Brushes used:

• Kryolan flat foundation brush
• Round puff for powder
• Disposable mascara wand
• Kryolan powder brush
• Unnamed lip brush

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Bibliography (images):

https://40.media.tumblr.com/f68e1d2c76d292a242ea558f75de22df/tumblr_mtdajcVaA91rdb09to1_500.jpg

http://orig03.deviantart.net/33ce/f/2012/353/a/e/elizabethan_make_up_by_punkd_pyroshadow-d5oklx4.jpg

https://corsetsandcutlasses.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/portrait_elizabethan_lady_par_hi.jpg

http://www.shafe.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/anon_a_young_lady_aged_21_1569.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/2e/c8/0b/2ec80b683e649e997ed2f2a69830b5a8.jpg

Final design proposals

Design #1

This is the simplest of my designs and the design that my partner has tried out on me. Although I like the design, it's not got the wow factor I really want for my final idea.

The details include: a dusty gold lip, gold brows achieved with a liquid metal gold and subtle gold shading in the inner corners of the eyes working down the nose and around under the eyes. This shading also goes over the forehead to create a heart shape, typical of the era. The eyes have simple black mascara.

Design #2

This design uses the same colours as my first design but it is slightly more complex. I have stuck
with using gold lips and brows, but added a slightly more intense colour of gold/red for the lids to create the feeling of power- suitable for a queen. I've also added in some glitter on the lashes. Contouring will be done using the same gold that is on the eyes.

Design #3

This is the design I want to use as my final idea. After thought about what could make the look more intense, I decided to continue using the gold and red colours, but create a sharp line under and above the eyes but blending it downwards so it blends into the illamasqua white base. I want to use a red to enhance the eyes, and then a black eyeshadow around the lashlines before applying normal black mascara and then whiting out the lashes and brows with supracolour white. Gold lips!

Perfecting eyes and lips

In this lesson with Sue we learnt about eye shapes and what style of eye makeup compliments particular types. Again, working in an environment where I have to know eye shapes at Boots really benefited me, and I was really lucky to work on Katie who has big, round eyes. Here are the different shapes you can find when working on clients on an everyday basis:

As you can see from the images below, Katie has really big eyes. It was so easy to work the colours onto them - I'm used to my own eyes, which are more of a downturned shape and it's hard to actually see any eyeshadow unless it's 'mega' for an evening out. I was surprised by how much of a difference my product made even though I'd only used a little bit.

We were set the task of using two colours. I chose to go for a rose goldy shimmer eyeshadow on the main area of the eye. For the outer section and the crease, I chose a warm brown and blended the two together. I was really pleased with the dimensional look it created, and the definition it gave to Katie's eyes.

For the lips, I chose an orangey- warm toned lipstick from our kit palette. It turned out a little brighter than anticipated, however I love how the whole look comes together with the colour I used. Next time, a darker colour (a vintage rose/maybe a dusty deep pink) could be better suited to the look. I really enjoyed this practical session and having a recap on eye shapes and what suits them. I enjoyed creating a fresh, pretty look on Katie!

Three images from todays lesson

Products used:

• No7 Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
• No7 airbrush away primer
• MAC studio fluid fix in NW15
• MAC 'Amber lights' and 'Brun'
• Collection long lash mascara black
• L'oreal eyebrow sculpting duo in dark
• Kryolan lip palette in R12

Brushes used:

• Kryolan foundation brush
• Kyrolan eyeshadow brush
• MAC blending eye brush
• Real Techniques angled eye fluffy brush
• Disposable mascara wands
• Kryolan small angled brush
• Unnamed lip brush

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?

The client was allergic to Illamasqua primers so we used No7 as an alternative.

• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Bibliography (images):

http://katesbeautyblog.info/content/images/2015/09/Six-Eye-Shapes-1.jpg

Practicing Halloween looks

Inspiration for the skull makeup

I continued to experiment at home for halloween. I decided to use my boyfriend as a model and create a take on a skull (not as fun as a sugar skull but scarier!) and was pleased with the outcome. I used the Supracolour palette in just black and white and then blended and shaded for a hollow, skull-like effect. The look all in all probably took about 40 minutes, I was especially pleased with the blending and how the lines over his cheekbones and eyebrow area completely distorted his face. 

My final outcome

I also decided to have a go at pop-art makeup and attempted this on myself. I was pleased with this outcome too, but had to practice a while to get the black marks that define the features just right. This look took about an hour to do, the most time consuming aspect of it was the white dots- quite a boring ordeal but totally worth it in the end! I used a youtube video for inspiration:

 

My final outcome

link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okBlne3Ydqw

Bibliography:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/32/fe/2c/32fe2c27c4f6bf61aba54c5469989ac3.gif

http://cdn.sheknows.com/articles/2014/10/Mike_C/SheKnows_US/1052891/17._Skeleton.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/fa/b4/46/fab4465b71a311950233fe8c126a72e9.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okBlne3Ydqw

Halloween - Mexican Day of the Dead Makeup

In our practical lesson with Kat we learnt and researched about Mexican Day of the Dead makeup. It's an interesting holiday celebrated in central and southern Mexico at the beginning of November. It is a holiday that celebrates the ancient belief of honouring their deceased loved ones and family members. Supposedly the gates of heaven are opened at the twelfth hour of October the 31 and all deceased children are reunited with their families for a short amount of time (24 hours). 

The people who believed in this tradition would mold sugar figures of angels and sugar skulls, which represented a departed soul. It would often have the name of the deceased person written on the forehead, and was placed on the gravestone to honour the return of the spirit. The sugar skulls reflects arty styles, big happy smiles with colour icing and sparkly/glittery ornaments. The more colourful the better! I really love the vibrancy of the traditional sugar skulls you see from the celebrations in Mexico. I was really looking forward to creating my own in the lesson!

Left image: Day of the dead inspired makeup. Right images: Day of the dead sugar skulls

My interpretation: 

I was paired with my lovely model Tolly, and created my own freehand sugar skull design. I wanted to use dark colours but also wanted to make it fun and creative. I used Illamasqua skin base,  and then the SupraColour palettes. To mattify the paints I used basic powder eyeshadows and powdered over the black eyes and darker colours used. I really enjoyed doing this freehand look and making it up as I went along! It was also great because I managed to work really quickly and efficiently. I want to try and experiment a bit more with the sugar skull idea over the Halloween period. 

My freehand sugar skull

Products used:

• Illamasqua skin base
• Kryolan Supracolour pallete in black, dark purple, dark red
• Makeup Revolutions palette lilac, pale pink

Brushes used:

• Kryolan flat foundation brush
• Kryolan Kabuki brush
• Mac lip brush
• Unknown brand eyeshadow brush
• Mac fluffy blending brush

Bibliography (images):

http://www.mexicansugarskull.com/support/dodhistory.html

http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/mexican-retro-sugar-skull-dia-de-los-muertos-icons-set-vintage-colorful-decorated-skulls-mexico-isolated-white-40995466.jpg

http://static1.squarespace.com/static/5511fc7ce4b0a3782aa9418b/t/5535e452e4b050914fab7074/1429595219996/feria-de-alfenique-sugar-skulls.jpg

http://halloweenalliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/4054399626_2729d2a2c2_b.jpg

http://padmes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/dod-face-painting.jpg

Shaping and contouring the face

In Sue's lesson today we recapped on how to apply the perfect base foundation and then we had a demonstration from her about how to contour and highlight.

Firstly, I ensured that Liberty's skin was properly prepped by cleansing, toning and moisturising her face. I blended a few colours from my Kryolan foundation palette to match her skin tone and applied the foundation from the inner face and worked it outwards. I then concealed any problem areas and under her eyes. I didn't finish with a powder as I normally would because we then went on to start highlighting and contouring the face.

(From left) Cleansed face, foundation base

How to contour:

• In order to shape the face and prep it for contour, we applied a light mix of concealers/foundations and lightly shaped these onto the upper cheekbones, the forehead (in a triangle formation) chin, and down the middle of the nose. 

• We then asked our models to suck their cheeks in and we felt for their cheekbones. Mixing together a shade one to two shades darker than their skin colour, we lightly lined out the cheek bone and blended it in a curving motion towards the face and into the hairline.

• You must make sure this is properly blended! Use fingers to do. This is a cream so it's easy to blend but can get a bit muddy.

• We then used a bronzer (I used matte) and went over the contour line we created and then up on the sides of the forehead and down across the jawline to create definition.

• If you want to you can use a blush for a pop of colour!

The final contour result:

I was really pleased with the finished result and felt like the process was easy. I was fascinated about how you can change what a person's facial structure looks like by defining their features! I hadn't really learnt about contouring before and hadn't even practiced it on myself. I was so intrigued and felt like the lesson was a great tool for future makeup looks. 

Products used:

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette
• Kryolan dermacolour camouflage concealer palette
• Illamasqua loose powder in translucent
• Kryolan blusher palette (dark browns)
• Sleek highlight

Brushes used:

• Kryolan foundation brush
• Kryolan Kabuki brush
• Kryolan concealer brush
• Charles Fox triangular sponge
• Angled contour brush
• Kryolan powder brush

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Experimenting with white bases: Hannah's practice

Quick post about Hannah's idea because I loved it! 

I partnered up with Hannah and she used the illamasqua skin base. The overall effect was a lot better than mine!!! My skin looked dewy and then Hana did some contouring on my cheekbones, forhead and jawline. In contrast to mine, her eye make up was messier and softer - also a nice effect! I think she did a really good job on this, the makeup is very effective and I think it really gives the idea of a contemporary Elizabethan look with the smaller lips, the harsh reds, pale face and the minimal eyebrows!

Experimenting with white bases

In our practical lesson with Kat we were told we needed to find out which skin base we wanted to use for our future makeup sessions and which we'd like to use for our final makeup assessment. We decided to try three different skin bases:

KRYOLAN AquaColour 

This formula was a palette that needed water added to it to create a good consistency to the face. We found that as a group the base looked patchy, uneven, and tended to dry the skin out. 

KRYOLAN Fox SuperColour

The constistency for this pallette wasn't much better than the aqua colour palette. I found that whilst experimenting with these two in particular I didn't like the drying effect; instead I wanted the models face to look smooth a dewy. This did not create this look for me.

ILLAMASQUA Skin Base

A very clever pigmented base that can be mixed with foundations to lighten them or used on it's own. This was my favourite base and I have chosen to use it for future practises and for my final design. I really loved how it looked. 


I practised my skin base on Hana. I used Kryolan AquaColour in white and applied it with a flat foundation brush. I then  used a light translucent powder over it and buffed it in with a buffing brush - the overall effect wasn't how I'd imagined as it was patchy and drying. I wanted to test it however, because it provides a more opaque base than Illamasqua's skin base. Here are the results: 

As you can see, the base is very opaque but does not have a flawless finish. I used one colour - (peachy/pink) to define certain areas but used no other make up other than that. The finished result was simple so next time I am going to be more adventurous and do something a little bit wilder; however, I do like the neatness of the eyes and the harsh lines. They suit the era very well because Elizabethan women weren't over the top, they stuck to a blushed cheek and lips, so I did blush contour and lips, and then a pink lid. I didn't white out the lashes and brows because I still wanted this simple look to have a modern feel to it. 

Products used in these photos:

• Kryolan Aquacolour
• Kryolan eyeshadow palette (BRIGHT)

Brushes used:

• Kryolan foundation brush
• Kryolan Kabuki brush
• Kryolan powder brush
• Kryolan eyeshadow brush

Monochromatic design and shoot

I had a lovely friend volunteer to have her makeup done by me and then to do a natural photoshoot. After doing alevel photography, I knew I prefered to shoot in natural lighting rather than a studio set up. These were taken late afternoon as the sun was setting and the images came out beautifully. I used my last blog post as inspiration!

I decided to go with a theme that would suit the environment in which the photos were taken. I wanted to use warm, autumnal colours and so went with gold hair accessories and a plum/burgundy shawl to set the image off. I used all gold makeup products to enhance my models features. I was super pleased with the outcome of these photos and thought they were a great experiment for the project, as I want to use golds and royal reds/burgundies in my final piece.

I was really pleased with this shoot in terms of makeup and styling. I was also really keen to practice my photography skills for our digital image hand ins so this was a good set of photos to put on my other blog and talk about!

Analogous designs/shoot with Ruby

I had a look at a few of the colours I'd like to use as inspiration for an analogous face chart. I actually designed something a while back and thought I'd use it as an example of an analogous design using greens and yellows:

I was so pleased with the makeup look I created and the shoot using natural lighting and greenery as the background really set the makeup off. I really want to recreate this in the studios and do a few more face charts that are similar to this design but using different colours. Love these images :) 

Ruby

Monochromatic design

We were set the task of creating a monochromatic makeup design in lesson and I was really excited to start this! I am a fan of using one colour and colours similar to eachother for makeup looks because it creates a beautiful, dimensional and interesting look. I decided to go with the colour silver as I'm torn between which colour represents royalty and wealth; gold or silver? Gold is traditionally used to represent these, however my other designs are featuring golds and reds so I thought I would go with silver for my monochromatic design.

Monochromatic face chart

This was the monochromatic makeup look on Hannah designed above:

I was really pleased with how the makeup turned out - I liked just having one colour but in two tones to work with. The look is simple but effective, it's almost mystical! I used the Illamasqua liquid metals palette in our kit that I hadn't used before so I was interested to see what the texture and final outcome was like. The liquid metals were easy to work with and blended beautifully. Here are my two favourite pictures that demonstrate the makeup:

Products used:

• No7 cleanser, toner and moisturiser
• Illamasqua matte primer
• Illamasqua skin base mixed with MAC studio fluid fix NW15 (foundation)
• MAC concealing pot NW15
• Illamasqua loose powder translucent
• Illamasqua liquid metals eye palette in 'Electrum' and 'Surge'
• L'Oreal false lash mascara, black

Brushes used:

• Real Techniques stippling brush
• Kryolan Kabuki brush
• Kryolan concealer brush
• Charles Fox round puff
• Real Techniques eye shadow brush
• Naked Pallet eye shadow brush
• Unnamed eye blending brush
• Disposable mascara wand
• Real Techniques contour brush

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Face charts: Analogous/Complimentary/Monochrome

Examples of various types of makeup designs including (from left): MONOCHROMATIC - colour schemes using one hue and different shades/tints. I used browns for this design and wanted to keep it natural and simple. COMPLEMENTARY - using colours that are opposites to each other to make the opposing colour pop. I used bright greens and a bright pink as these colours make the other stand out. ANALOGOUS - these colours are side by side on the colour wheel and blend well together. I used purples and navy blues.

Choosing the correct base/Application of the base

In our second practical lesson we learnt how to properly apply foundation to create the perfect base.

FOUNDATION AND CREATING A BASE: 

Instructions and points to remember: 

• Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin to ensure it's clean and prepped for makeup.

• If applying a primer, wait for the moisturiser to have settled nicely into the skin and either apply with fingers gently or buff with a brush. (You can also mix your primer in with your foundation if you fancy. If your client is pale and needs a lighter shade than that's in your kit, you can mix the appropriate shade with your illamasqua skin base. This will lighten up the colour and the texture. Use a primer appropriate to the skin type e.g matte for oily, sheer for dry skin.

• Using a spatula, take some of the appropriate shade from your foundation pallet and apply to either the back of your hand or a pallet mixer. Mix until you find the perfect shade. Do not double dip! 

• Always use a brush to apply foundation to your client - heat from your fingers removes the product and leaves an untidy finish. 

• Like cleansing and moisturising, apply the product to the middle of the fact and work the product out for a natural coverage and finish. 

• Apply layers with foundation, don't try to add thick amounts to certain areas. You can add and adjust as you continue on.

• Ensure you blend foundation up to the hairline, around the ears and on the ears as well as down the jawline and neck. This makes sure it's all even!

• (Optional step) Buff out any areas with the kabuki brush in your kit. It works wonders and leaves the skin looking flawless.

CONCEALING

• Grab a small concealer brush and apply the correct colour to any blemishes, problem areas, or under eye bags. Again, make sure applications aren't thick, you can add to them again and they'll look a lot better that way.

POWDER

• To set your foundation and concealer, use a sponge or a brush to apply a light translucent powder. Press the product on rather than rub it. Focus especially around the corners of the eyes, on the nose, the corners of the mouth and the T Zone. Flawless! 

The products I used in our practical:

• No7 beautiful skin cleanser
• No7 beautiful skin toner
• Vitamin E facial lotion
• Illamasqua matte primer
• Kryolan UltraFoundation 8 palette 
• Kryolan Dermacolour Camouflage Mini Palette 16
• Illamasqua loose powder in transculent 

Brushes used:

• Kryolan foundation brush
• Kryolan Kabuki brush
• Kryolan small concealer brush
• Charles Fox triangular sponge

Health and safety for this technical lesson:

• Work surface area must be clean and tidy
• Use couch roll to cover the surface of your work space 
• Wash hands after preparing where you'll be working! Use antibacterial soap and a clean towel
• Always lay out your brushes on the couch roll - never a surface. Make sure your brushes are always clean before you arrive 
• Gown the model
• Always remember to ask whether the client is allergic to anything, if so, what?
• Does the client wear contact lenses or have sensitive eyes?
• Cleanse the face and follow on with toner and moisturiser before applying makeup
• Bin any dirty cotton pads, wash your hands again after this
• Use a mixing palette or the back of your hand to mix products. Do not double dip!
• Direct the model if necessary, looking upwards, moving their head etc

Kryolan foundation and concealer palette

Skincare: Cleansing, toning and moisterising

Our first practical make up lesson was with Sue. We learnt the importance of hygiene as well as how to cleanse, tone and moisturise the face appropriately. 

Notes to remember:

• Cleansing, toning, exfoliating and moisturising are important factors in ensuring your client/models face is ready for make up application. It might be an idea to recommend the client exfoliates their face the night before a shoot as the skin can get quite red after exfoliating. If it's a bridal photo shoot, recommend exfoliating 3/4 days prior to the event. 

ALWAYS INFORM YOUR CLIENT THAT YOU'RE GOING TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE BEGINNING ON THEIR SKIN: THIS IS NOT ONLY HYGIENIC BUT PROFESSIONAL. 

• CLEANSE to get rid of grime/makeup/dirt - take it all of. You're working on a blank canvas.
• Men - cleanse dirt from skin, use a tissue instead of cotton wool as this won't get caught on stubble. 
• Use babybuds around the delicate eye areas to remove left over mascara/eyeliner or any foundation/concealer. 
• TONE after cleansing to get rid of any left over grime and moisture. This prepares for the moisturiser. 
• MOISTURISING - use as much as a pea and don't forget the neck! Apply in firm upward motions working from the middle of the face outwards. Careful around delicate areas and make sure you're not too rough with it.
• Use couch roll to keep the surface you are working on clean; this looks professional and ensures the client is confident that you're clean. 
• Have your brush cleaner in a bowl. This is an alcoholic substance, if used during a makeover because you only have one kind of a brush, make sure it is dried and that the alcohol smell had faded as it can make client's eyes water and be unpleasant. 
• Shampoo your professional brushes every two weeks to keep the bristles soft and clean.
• Keep sectioning clips in your kit to keep hair off the face, and keep your hairdressing cape in your kit too. 
• Be aware of eyes; some liquids and powders can irritate eyes - always ask if your client has contact lenses too.
• You can always ask your client to remove their own eye make up if it's proving difficult to remove - some people might want to do it themselves.
• *** IS YOUR CLIENT ALLERGIC TO ANYTHING? ***
• Use sensitive, non fragranced and hypoallergenic products when removing make up and cleaning the skin.
• Put your dirty cotton wool in the bin - don't leave it by your kit. 
• You can ask your client to look up to the ceiling to really clean around the eyes.
• Your client's face is completely clean when your cotton buds and cotton wool are clear of any make up or grime.

My model after cleansing, toning and mosterising

LESSON EVALUATION

I really enjoyed this first practical lesson as I could finally get stuck in! I found that my client was relaxed as I cleansed her face. I asked for her feedback and she said I had the pressure right in terms of how firm I was being with her face, and that she felt very at ease and even though I was close to her she didn't feel like I was invading her personal space. When it came to removing her eye make up, she had waterproof, non budging mascara on and I thought it was going to be difficult to remove. I managed to remove it without asking her to try by soaking the eyelashes a bit more with the cleanser and being slightly firmer. I then removed the rest and cleaned up the eyes with a cotton bud. I was pleased with the overall result and my client felt refreshed and ready for make up application. 

Practice

Practise